The visit to Frankfurt was partly made as part of a press trip withVisit Frankfurt, but, as always, all thoughts and opinions expressed here are entirely my own.
I’ve been to Frankfurt am Main more times than any other German city, yet somehow, I’d never really visited the city itself. For years, Frankfurt meant little more to me than its airport and financial suits – a place to pass through rather than a destination to spend a weekend in.
But once the suits disappear for the weekend, a very different Frankfurt emerges – a vibrant city filled with festivals, green spaces, fascinating museums and an impressive variety of restaurants. Add affordable weekend flights and attractive hotel rates, and you have all the ingredients for a memorable – and surprisingly affordable – city break in one of Europe’s most compact major cities.
Frankfurt is, in short, a city I should have discovered a long time ago! Catch up on some of the things I experienced during my weekend in Frankfurt – everything from cider restaurants to Goethe and dinosaur skeletons in an unsorted list!
1. Römer and Römerberg
Frankfurt’s most iconic building is undoubtedly Römer, the historic town hall overlooking Römerberg right in the city's historic center. When Frankfurt needed a larger town hall in the 15th century, the city took the unusual approach of incorporating the surrounding patrician houses into the complex. Over the centuries, it grew into an impressive ensemble of no fewer than 13 historic buildings.
Unfortunately, Frankfurt suffered immense damage during World War II, with around 80% of the city destroyed in bombing raids in 1944. The Römer was badly affected as well, but after the war, the historic buildings were painstakingly rebuilt and restored to their former prominence. Today, the Römer once again stands as one of Frankfurt’s most iconic landmarks and enduring symbols.
The heart of Römer is the magnificent The Imperial Hall (Kaisersaal). The Römer played host to the grand coronation banquets of the Holy Roman Emperors. The first was held here in 1612, following the coronation of Emperor Matthias, while the final banquet took place on July 5, 1792, for Francis II, the last emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
The hall is adorned with portraits of all 52 emperors and kings of the Holy Roman Empire, from Charlemagne and Frederick Barbarossa to Francis II. Together, they offer a fascinating journey through nearly a thousand years of European history – and an equally fascinating evolution of royal fashion.
Best of all, the Imperial Hall is open to the public and completely free to visit, provided it isn’t reserved for an official reception, banquet or other ceremony.
The other historic houses around Römerberg were also destroyed by the bombs of World War II, but the half-timbered houses on the eastern side of the square, known as Samstagsberg, have been faithfully reconstructed to resemble the originals. Not only are they incredibly picturesque, but they have also retained their charming historic names, ranging from The Great Angel to The Golden Griffon.
2. New Old Town (Neue Altstadt)
One area that has come to be loved by both Frankfurt residents and tourists is the New Old Town –New Old Town. Before World War II, the area between Römerberg and Frankfurt Cathedral was a densely built medieval neighbourhood, with hundreds of small houses – many of them half-timbered – packed into a maze of narrow streets, alleys, courtyards and little squares. After the war, however, the focus was on modernisation rather than restoring the historic buildings. Much of the area was even turned into a vast parking lot, and in the 1970s, the controversial Technisches Rathaus was built: a massive Brutalist concrete complex that was, to put it mildly, not exactly easy on the eye.
In 2005, a landmark decision was made to demolish the Technisches Rathaus and recreate the historic character of the neighbourhood with 35 new buildings. Fifteen were faithful reconstructions of historic houses, while the remaining 15 were newly designed buildings inspired by the traditional architecture of the old town. Modernist critics strongly opposed the plans, but it soon became clear that the project had struck a chord. Today, the New Old Town has been embraced by locals and visitors alike, bringing new life and character to one of Frankfurt’s most historic corners.
One of the reasons for its success is likely the decision to keep large chains out of the new quarter, making room instead for independent shops, cafés and smaller restaurants. The result is a neighbourhood with a distinctly local character – and clearly, I’m not the only one who has fallen in love with it!
In my eyes, the most beautiful house is the charming red-and-white half-timbered building Goldene Waage, which has been built with incredible craftsmanship. Every detail is worth taking the time to admire. And if you’re looking for a sweet treat, the café in the building serves what is said to be the city’s best Frankfurter Kranz – a local cake that’s not to be missed!
3. Goethe House
Right in the heart of Frankfurt stands Goethe House, the reconstructed childhood home of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. He was one of the few German writers I actually encountered at school, although I’m not sure I fully appreciated his genius at the time. Goethe was born here in 1749 and spent his childhood in the house before eventually leaving Frankfurt to pursue a career as one of Germany’s greatest writers and poets.
The house was destroyed like so much else during World War II, but was rebuilt after the war with the help of photographs and drawings. However, a lot of the furniture is original, as the family did not live in the house during the bombings and had stored their furniture.
A visit to the Goethe House is about much more than Goethe himself. It offers a fascinating glimpse into how a wealthy family lived in 18th-century Frankfurt, from the elegant rooms to the details of everyday life. There is also plenty of information in English, making it easy to explore the house at your own pace.
One of the most fascinating pieces in the house is the astronomical clock, built in 1746. Far more than simply telling the time, it displays the day of the week, month and year, the phases of the moon, the position of the sun and the twelve signs of the zodiac. Goethe never actually owned the clock, but he saw it at the home of its owner and became fascinated – almost obsessed – with it. It feels like the perfect piece for an 18th-century home, reflecting the era’s deep fascination with astronomy and the mysteries of the universe, even though it was never actually part of the original household.
4. Palmengarten
Frankfurt is a surprisingly green city, especially for one of Europe’s major financial centres. Around a third of the city is made up of green space, much of it forming part of Frankfurt’s famous "Green Belt". Amidst Frankfurt's modern skyline you will find the Botanical Garden Palmengarten. The Palmengarten opened in 1871 after Frankfurt citizens purchased a remarkable collection of plants from the Duke of Nassau. Today, its large greenhouses are home to exotic plants from around the world, while fountains, pavilions and quiet benches are scattered throughout the gardens. It’s a wonderfully peaceful escape that feels worlds away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
The Palmengarten is more than just a botanical garden; it’s a place steeped in history where people of all ages come to slow down and enjoy a moment of peace and quiet. I visited on a sunny summer day when temperatures reached 34°C, which perhaps made me appreciate the chance to escape the heat, find some shade beneath the trees and enjoy an ice cream all the more.
5. Kleinmarkthalle
Hungry for lunch? Head to the lively Kleinmarkthalle, Frankfurt’s beloved indoor market. More than 60 stalls are packed into just over 1,500 square metres, offering everything from fresh fruit, cheese and meat to flowers, local specialities and delicacies from around the world. It’s the perfect place to grab a quick lunch while soaking up the sights, sounds and flavours of everyday Frankfurt.
I passed through here twice on the same day, and both times it was just as lively. The longest queue was at Ilse Schreiber’s sausage stand, where she has been serving sausages with mustard for an incredible 60 years. Now 85 years old, the self-proclaimed sausage queen still greets her customers with the same enthusiasm as ever. The second-longest queue was for a matcha stand serving colourful, picture-perfect drinks. Apparently an internet sensation, it had drawn a long line of young Frankfurt locals eager to get their hands on one.
Kleinmarkthalle is the kind of place you can either breeze through in a few minutes or take your time exploring, tasting and soaking up the atmosphere for an entire afternoon.
6. Frankfurt Vineyard and Lohrberg
Did you know that a city can actually own a vineyard? Frankfurt has owned vineyards since 1803, with a total of around 25 hectares under cultivation. Most of the city’s vineyards are located in Hochheim, just outside Frankfurt, but there is also one right within the city limits. On the slopes of the Lohrberg hill, a 1,3-hectare vineyard overlooks Frankfurt’s skyline. Riesling is the main grape grown here, producing around 10000 highly sought-after bottles each year.
Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt is operated on a lease, which is renewed every 30 years. In 2026, a new winemaker won the lease, and Fabian Schwarz and his family will be responsible for the vineyard for the years ahead. Fabian also runs another vineyard according to biodynamic principles, and the plan is to gradually convert Frankfurt’s vineyard to the same approach in the coming years. It’s an exciting new chapter for this charming little vineyard – and one worth following!
If you’d like to taste Frankfurt’s wines or pick up a few bottles to take home, the winery has a small shop just behind the Römer. Keep in mind that it’s only open a few days a week – currently Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays – so it’s worth planning your visit accordingly. If you have more time, even better: a visit to the winery in Hochheim is highly recommended!
7. Rooftop bars
For the ultimate Frankfurt experience, a visit to a rooftop bar is a must – preferably one with a spectacular view of the illuminated skyline. Sitting high above the city on a warm summer evening, cocktail in hand and the skyscrapers of the financial district glowing in the distance, feels about as close to New York as you can get in Europe. There are rooftop bars and panoramic restaurants scattered across the city, with even more opening in recent years. Swim and sunbathe with a drink on a rooftop in the middle of the city at Citybeach Frankfurt, have lunch with high-rise views at The View or have a BBQ with a view Chicago Williams.
We visited the sky bar at Fleming's hotel and didn't need to book a table, but got a table with an incredible view after just 5 minutes. An unforgettable evening!
8. Sachsenhausen
Once a city in its own right, Sachsenhausen is now Frankfurt’s second-largest district – and the heartland of one of the city’s most beloved specialities: Apfelwein. Apple wine has been produced in Frankfurt since the Middle Ages, although it wasn’t exactly a deliberate choice. Repeated crop failures, cold spells, plagues and plant diseases made growing grapes increasingly difficult, while apple trees proved far more resilient and reliable. And when you ferment apple juice, you get cider – or, as the locals would say, Apfelwein.
What makes apple wine so special in Frankfurt is that it is made right here in the city. In the lovely neighborhood of Sachsenhausen, there used to be plenty of apple trees and apple wine makers, and with that, many Apple wine taverns (Apfelweinwirtschaften), where people gathered and ate well and drank apple wine.
Traditionally, Apfelwein is served in a blue-grey ceramic jug known as a Bembel, and poured into distinctive glasses with a diamond-shaped pattern. According to local tradition, the pattern dates back to a time when people ate greasy food with their fingers and needed a better grip on their glasses.
We visited Lorsbacher Thal and enjoyed the warm evening and the nice and cozy atmosphere in their courtyard.
9. MainÄppelHaus
Up on Lohrberg, you’ll find more than just vineyards. There’s also Mainäppelhaus, a non-profit centre dedicated to fruit growing and nature education, with a particular focus on apples. The two-hectare orchard is home to both old and new apple varieties, as well as pears, cherries and various berries. You can browse the farm shop for locally grown produce or stop by the restaurant to sample some of their drinks. But perhaps most importantly, MainÄppelHaus offers courses and educational activities for both children and adults, teaching visitors about fruit cultivation, apples and the natural world.
We took the opportunity to have lunch on the farm’s lovely outdoor terrace and sample their sparkling Apple Secco, which paired perfectly with the local speciality Handkäse. It’s another wonderful little escape that feels a world away from the hustle and bustle of the big city.
10. Chinese Garden
One of Frankfurt's green areas is Bethmannpark, a popular spot where locals come to jog, relax on a bench with friends or take a leisurely stroll with a pram. Hidden behind the park’s walls is the Chinese Garden, a tranquil little oasis of ponds, pavilions, bamboo and striking rock formations. Known as the Garden of Heavenly Peace, the garden serves as a memorial to the victims of the 1989 Tiananmen Square protests in Beijing, adding a deeper historical significance to this otherwise peaceful corner of the city.
11. Bockenheimer Warte – The subway station with the train crash
One of Frankfurt’s – and perhaps even Europe’s – most photographed subway entrances is Bockenheimer Warte. Far from being an ordinary entrance, it’s a wonderfully quirky example of how something as mundane as a subway station can become a beloved and humorous part of a city’s identity. Designed to look as though a subway car has crashed straight through the pavement, the entrance features “crumpled” asphalt and tilted railings, creating the illusion of a spectacular underground collision.
12. The stock exchange district and the skyscrapers
No city in Europe can quite match Frankfurt’s skyline. It’s no coincidence that the city has earned the nickname “Mainhattan”, a playful reference to the Main River and Manhattan’s iconic skyscrapers. Frankfurt has long been one of Europe’s leading financial centres, with skyscrapers rising across the city since the post-war era. But the skyline gained even more momentum after Brexit, as Frankfurt strengthened its position as a major European financial hub. Today, Frankfurt is Germany’s fifth-largest city, with a population roughly comparable to Stockholm’s. It may feel like a big city in many ways, but its relatively compact size makes it remarkably easy to explore on foot or by public transport.
Today, Frankfurt’s urban development is no longer simply about building higher – it’s about building smarter. The city is taking a more considered approach to its future skyline, while new neighbourhoods are being designed to be denser, greener and more mixed-use. The Commerzbank Tower is a great example of how Frankfurt’s skyscrapers can incorporate nature into the cityscape. Inspired by the idea of bringing gardens into high-rise buildings, it features landscaped gardens high above the streets, creating pockets of greenery within the tower itself. Another increasingly important idea is the XNUMX-minute city: the concept that the essentials of everyday life – work, schools, shops, green spaces, recreation and services – should all be within roughly XNUMX minutes of where you live. It’s a vision of a city that is not only taller, but also more liveable, sustainable and connected.
Walking around the neighbourhood, I’m struck by just how many people are constantly on the move – mostly business travellers and professionals rushing to meetings, running errands or wheeling their carry-on bags towards their next destination.
Just below the financial district lies Goethestraße, one of Frankfurt’s most exclusive shopping streets, lined with luxury names ranging from Hermès to Bvlgari. It’s the perfect place to slip away from the office for lunch – and perhaps pick up a last-minute gift while you’re at it.
13. Senckenberg Nature Museum
Senckenberg Nature Museumis one of Europe’s great natural history museums – and an absolute paradise for anyone who loves dinosaurs (myself included). It is home to Germany’s largest dinosaur collection, featuring enormous skeletons of Diplodocus, Tyrannosaurus rex and Triceratops, among many other prehistoric giants.
But dinosaurs are only the beginning. The museum’s exhibitions cover an incredible range of topics, from “Life in the Deep Sea” and “The Brain” to Lucy, the famous three-million-year-old skeleton of an Australopithecus afarensis, long before the emergence of Homo sapiens. You could easily spend several hours exploring the museum and discovering more about the history of our planet and the evolution of life. It’s fascinating, educational and highly recommended for visitors of all ages!
Want to visit even more museums? Frankfurt has an impressive range to choose from, from renowned art institutions like the Schirn art gallery to a slightly more unusual museum like Struwwelpeter Museum One area that stands out is Museum Shore, where 39 museums are gathered in one place. It's not difficult to find museums in Frankfurt, it's rather difficult to choose which ones you have time to visit!
14. Eiserner Steg
The narrow iron bridge Eiserner Steg has connected Frankfurt's old town with the Sachsenhausen district since 1869. The bridge was destroyed during the final stages of the war, but was rebuilt in 1946. Today, it is above all the view that makes the walk over the Eiserner Steg worth the trouble. In front of you lies the cathedral and the old town, behind you rises the shiny skyline of Frankfurt.
On the top of the bronze is a Greek quote from Homer's Odyssey – "Sailing on the wine-dark sea towards people of another language” – a fitting greeting for a bridge that, at 170 meters, connects two completely different sides of Frankfurt for those passing by.
15. Go to festivals and markets
Last but certainly not least: festivals, markets and traditional fairs! You can’t really talk about Frankfurt without mentioning its lively calendar of festivals and folk celebrations. If you’re planning a weekend in the city, it’s well worth timing your visit to coincide with one of them – it’s one of the best ways to experience Frankfurt at its most vibrant and local.
Spring begins with Dippemess(amusement park) and Green Sauce Festival (food festival), before culture takes over with Night of the Museums. Frankfurter Fastnacht is one of the city's great annual traditions during Easter. The highlight is the large Carnival parade, the carnival parade through central Frankfurt.
Summer is coming with Opernplatzfest, Mainfest, Apfelwein-Festival and Museumsuferfest– city parties where music is an important part of the program.
The year ends at a much slower pace at Frankfurt's classic Christmas market – one of Germany's oldest and largest Christmas markets with over 230 stalls and millions of visitors.
Have you actually visited Frankfurt, or have you mostly just passed through?
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