In the northern part of the Burgundy wine region, where the vines spread most beautifully over the hills, lies the city of Dijon. A city often associated with mustard, but which is in fact a World Heritage-listed charmer filled with art, history, food culture and wine.
Once the capital of the powerful Duchy of Burgundy, Dijon was one of Europe's great cultural and military centers. The duchy had an influential court where music and art flourished among knights and nobles, and the city's palaces and churches still bear witness to the power and wealth of that era.
In the historic center, the legacy of the dukes remains in the form of Renaissance castles, Gothic gargoyles and small cobblestone alleys lined with charming squares.
We drove into Dijon on a late July afternoon, without any major expectations. Our goal was the wine route. Route des Grands Crus, and Dijon was mostly intended as a practical stop with historic accommodation. But the city lured us out for a long evening walk and a morning walk that we didn't really have time for.
Notre Dame and La Chouette
The last rays of the sun cast a golden glow on the stone facades along Dijon's cobblestone streets. The balmy summer evening filled the city with people of all ages. The outdoor cafes were full, children ran between the tables and waiters moved with obvious nonchalance between the hungry guests.
Our evening began at Notre Dame, the city's impressive cathedral. The facade is dominated by three rows of gargoyles that stare down at us, giving the church a slightly frightening, yet exciting, expression. The interior of the cathedral is not particularly spectacular, but the details of the facade are all the more interesting.
On the north facade of the cathedral sits a small, worn stone owl – La Chouette . The owl is the symbol of Dijon and according to tradition you should stroke it with your left hand, put your right hand on your heart and make a wish. We did it a bit half-heartedly and missed the hand on the heart, so our wish probably burned inside.
Owl Trail at dusk
Right at the owl statue it begins Parcours de la Chouette, the marked owl trail that guides visitors to the city's major attractions. Metal owls in the paving stones showed us the way through narrow alleys and historic neighborhoods.
Since we had no map, we ended up losing the trail of owls, but it didn't matter – the light at dusk glowed so beautifully that we stopped to buy an ice cream instead and just enjoyed the atmosphere.
Mustard at La Moutarderie Fallot
The evening led us on to La Moutarderie Fallot, the shop that everyone in Dijon must visit. The walls are filled from floor to ceiling with mustard jars with all the flavors of the world – tarragon, truffle, blackcurrant, honey and much, much more.
Since the Middle Ages, mustard has been made in the region, originally with verjuice – the juice of unripe grapes – which gave it a unique sour taste that was loved throughout France. Today, Dijon mustard is only a style designation, and production takes place on a large scale all over the world. However, Burgundian mustard (Indication Géographique Protégée – IGP), which is a blend of mustard seeds and wine from Burgundy, has been protected since 2009. All mustard from La Moutarderie Fallot is therefore both Burgundian mustard and Dijon mustard.
We couldn’t resist the temptation and bought about a dozen different types of mustard – some small jars, some large ones. In Burgundy you quickly learn that there is a mustard for every occasion. Although mustard is no longer made in Dijon, you can visit their factory in Beaune.
Place de la Liberation and Palais des Ducs
After buying mustard, we walked further to Place de la Libération, the square that is the true heart of the city. The low, arched architecture frames brasseries and wine bars, and an almost invisible fountain ripples among playing children.
Opposite the square rises Palace of the Dukes, the old palace of the former dukes, which began construction in 1364 under Duke Philip the Bold. The palace underwent several reconstructions until the 19th century and today houses both Dijon's town hall and the Musée des Beaux-Arts.
We looked up at Tour of Philippe the Good, the angular tower that after 316 steps offers a fantastic view of the city, but unfortunately we were too late – the tower had just closed for the day.
Dinner at an outdoor terrace at Halles Centrales
After the evening walk, we settled down at an outdoor café right by Halles Centrales, the glass and metal market hall inspired by Gustave Eiffel’s engineering firm. After several days of French food, we weren’t feeling traditional, so we opted for an Asian fusion restaurant – a reminder that in the gastronomic city of Dijon, you can find all sorts of flavors if you’re tired of the rustic French menus.
A morning at the Halles Centrales
The next morning we walked back to Halles CentralesThe market hall was bustling with life. Fish counters glittered, lobsters waved their claws, air-dried meat hung in rows, and fruit and vegetables lay in colorful abstract patterns.
Halles Centrales is not necessarily cheap, but everything is fresh, locally grown and of high quality. We walked slowly through the hall and let ourselves be absorbed by the scents and impressions. After a good breakfast at the hotel, we skipped the tastings this time.
Dijon – more than we expected
We came to Dijon without great expectations, but left with memories of lovely outdoor seating in the evening sun, flavor explosions of mustard and a little lucky owl. The jars of mustard will remind us of Dijon for many years to come, even if consumption back home in Sweden will probably be more sparing.
How do I get to Dijon?
Dijon is located in northern Burgundy, 20 kilometers north of Lyon or just under 2 hours by high-speed train (TGV) from Paris.
We stayed in Appart'hôtel Odalys City Les Cordeliers, an aparthotel in an old monastery with a perfect location in the central parts of Dijon. Affordable and comfortable.
Would you like to read more tips about Burgundy? Check out my landing page!
Do you want to read more about France? Here you will find more articles about nature, cities, castles, vineyards and hiking.
If you see this after your page is loaded completely, leafletJS files are missing.
It looks so nice there. I had never heard of the place before, although the mustard is of course famous.