The hike on Gnitz was done on a press trip together withMecklenburg-Western Pomerania tourist office, but all thoughts and opinions are, as always, my own.
Most people who travel to the German island of Usedom come for the island's vast beaches and charming 19th-century seaside resorts. But the island is more than just tourism. Before the first bathers arrived, agriculture and fishing were the main industries – and they still are. Much of the fishing takes place in the Baltic Sea, but a large part is connected to the inland sea between the island and the mainland – Achterwasser. Here lies the Gnitz Peninsula, a nature reserve with hiking opportunities all year round. We went there in early December and had almost the entire area to ourselves – except for a few curious sheep.
Our hike begins on the outskirts of the small village of Lütow. The parking lot at the turnoff is closed to the public, so we have to park on the side of the road with the other cars. The round trip is about five kilometers if you want to take a detour back to the car, but according to the map you can continue along the coast in either direction. The peninsula is small and with the water all around it is almost impossible to get lost.
Soon after we begin our hike, the landscape opens up to Achterwasser, the brackish inland sea that separates Usedom from the mainland. The extensive reed belts along the shore act as a refuge for wildlife, and with a bit of luck you might catch a glimpse of a beaver or otter playing among the roots. The beaver is protected from hunting and has made a big comeback on Usedom. Everywhere along the path we see traces of gnawing – almost every tree has been marked.
At the tip of the peninsula is a wild sandy beach where shells and driftwood have piled up. During the summer months I imagine kayaks and canoes passing by here in the lagoon, but now it is completely empty.
As we round the tip, the beach becomes stonier, with rocks at the water’s edge in different colors and shapes. The water brings out their hues, but here in the lagoon there is no amber – although some rocks look like they could be golden treasures.
On our right we pass an open landscape with meadows and sheep pastures. The large grassy areas are grazed during the summer months by sheep and cows who can wander over large areas here. Here we also see the large sand ridge that characterizes Gnitz and which gives the area its hilly and unique landscape.
We climb up the relatively steep, sandy hill where pines and junipers hold the ground in place. The sand ridge is a geological legacy from the Weichselian Ice Age, formed by moraine and meltwater deposits. The steepness down to the lagoon from the sand ridge is up to 30 meters, so it is important to stay on the path. From the top, the turquoise hues of the water shimmer even under the waves of the lead-gray sky. In summer, barn swallows nest here on the sand slopes, and their cries echo across the lagoon. The white-tailed sea eagle also nests here, but they too are conspicuous by their absence on this winter day.
On the way back we pass a small nature campsite in the dark pine forest. Most of the caravans are empty, waiting for the summer, but a few seem to be inhabited all year round. Advent candles and Christmas lights illuminate the path and give a warm glow before we reach the car again.
A winter hike on the Gnitz is a trip through wetlands, dunes, steep slopes and coniferous forests, without crowds, noise or distractions. Here you can stop, look at the lagoon, smell the coniferous forest and let the batteries recharge. For those who want a weekend where nature gets all the attention, Gnitz is an unspoilt area that is also suitable for family hikes.
How do I get to Gnitz?
Gnitz is a peninsula in the lagoon Achterwasser on the island of Usedom in northern Germany. The easiest way to get here is by car and by ferry from Ystad/Trelleborg to Świnoujście (Swinemünde in German). There are picnic areas on benches along the way, but that is the only service.
Would you like to see more from Usedom? Check out my Usedom page!
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