It's an eternal balancing act, that hotel thing. Of course you want personality and charm, but without having to feel like a confused guest in an episode of Fawlty Towers. And of course you want amenities, but preferably without accidentally checking into a hotel where the interior feels like a perfect American luxury hotel without a soul. The hotel with a decent-sized bed, a view that makes you want to pull the curtains even before you wake up and a feeling of coziness – but with more croissants and more well-aged cheese than at home.
On our trip to Dordogne, we ended up, probably thanks to late cancellations, with two real gems: Hotel la Metairie in Mauzac-et-Grand-Castang and Hotel L'Abbaye in Saint-Cyprien. Two hotels with fantastic guest ratings and a great location, which turned out to be so wonderfully French that you almost want to move in.
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Hotel la Metairie
Thirty kilometers east of Bergerac, amidst a sea of horse pastures and rural views that would make any stressed city dweller start to catch their breath, lies Hotel la Metairie. A 19th-century building where the peace and quiet almost sit within the walls. There is no village here, no supermarket around the corner – and that is exactly the point. You can sink into a garden chair with a book and pretend that the world outside doesn't exist.
The guests were a motley mix of elegant French ladies on a friendship trip, middle-aged couples, and families with grown children. And almost all of them did the same thing as us: sightseeing during the day and dining at the hotel restaurant every night. Dogs were also obvious guests, and they lay nicely under the tables in the restaurant in the evenings.
Rum
The hotel has ten rooms, some of which are slightly larger and are classified as suites. We stayed in one of the simplest – but simple turned out to mean “beautifully furnished with a modern toilet, air conditioning, wifi and a minibar with, among other things, a half-bottle of champagne”.
The bathroom was lovely, but designed by a basketball player. I, who is 1,68 meters above the earth's crust, dangled my legs on the toilet and had to stand on tiptoe to use the makeup mirror.
The bathroom had lovely toiletries and the rain shower was perfect. Our little dog got his own welcome pack with his own dog bed and his own food bowls – including one with a princess crown. What else?
Restaurant and breakfast
La Métairie is a foodie paradise for anyone who loves classic French cuisine. The restaurant offers a culinary experience filled with the flavors of the region for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Dinner was taken on the terrace at sunset. Here you were not only full, but also happy. For dinner, guests can choose between “starter & main course” or “main course & dessert” for €38, three courses for €52 or four courses (including cheese) for €60. A small snack is also served with the aperitif and a hearty soup is always included as a starter. The menu changes every day, but always contains high-quality ingredients such as foie gras, scallops, monkfish, duck breast and filet mignon. A dish that was on the menu for several days was Salad Perigordine – an extravagant local “salad” with, among other things, generous slices of foie gras and duck breast.
The outdoor seating was the best place for dinner, but breakfast was served indoors regardless of temperature and weather in the rustic restaurant with upholstered chairs and white tablecloths. Breakfast was no slouch either, with plenty of freshly baked bread, juices, cold cuts, cheeses and salmon. A large bowl of strawberries and cherries was offered daily, in addition to a fruit salad and a fruit bowl. Egg dishes were also included as an a la carte option, which were cooked to order.
The rooms were named after flowers, and before dinner and breakfast, signs were set out at the tables with the room name. Everything was prepared and ready, all we had to do was sit down.
We were incredibly happy with the food at the hotel and it was a bit charming to meet the same guests every day. Eventually you start talking to everything and everyone – something that felt very un-Swedish.
Surroundings
The hotel's pool and garden were a peaceful oasis and there were rarely more than a handful of guests by the pool. Many guests preferred to sit on their terrace, or on one of the chairs in the shade under the trees. Here you will not find a noisy children's pool or beach balls, but rather quiet guests with a book, headphones and a feeling that there is nowhere else to be.
The bottom line
A hotel suitable for couples or friends who want to take it easy and eat well and stay close to vineyards and attractions along the Dordogne River. Dog-friendly, charming, fresh and very addictive.
Read more about the hotel on their website: ~ Hotel Restaurant La Métairie – Charming 4 star hotel in the Périgord in Mauzac
Abbey
If La Métairie was like checking into a romantic French country film, Hotel L'Abbaye is like staying with a French family. Run by a mother, father and two daughters, the hotel will melt your heart before you even check in.
High up in the village of Saint Cyprien, the hotel is located in a stone house that was previously home to monks from the village monastery. When the family took over the buildings, they had been uninhabited for 10 years, but today the 22 rooms and the house are more beautiful than ever. With a lot of passion and a sense of detail, we were greeted by a truly small, well-renovated gem.
Rum
We were given the room at the very top of the house, with a fantastic view from our window over the village and the monastery. All 22 rooms are decorated differently, and we were given a room with a queen size bed, bathroom and a small desk. All rooms had air conditioning. The bathroom was partially renovated, with a bathtub and sink in apricot, which despite its retro style felt very well thought out.
I won't lie that the queen-size bed felt a bit narrow for a comfortable middle-aged couple, but luckily the comfortable mattresses made up for the lack of space. The rooms were quite noisy, so a tip is not to go to bed before English families with overtired (and noisy) toddlers.
The stairwells were charmingly decorated with beautiful wallpaper, upholstered furniture and delightful paintings of dogs and animals.
Surroundings and interior design
The hotel was as hilly as the village it was located in. On the lowest terrace there was a lounge with trees, small secluded corners and a bar that was always “open” – just ask at reception.
Restaurant and breakfast
The dining room where breakfast is served is right next to the terrace, so you can choose between eating indoors at the wing or outdoors on the terrace. Breakfast is very French, with local cheeses and cold cuts, bread, juices and coffee. Eggs are included and cooked and served to your liking. Sitting on the terrace with coffee in giant cups and watching the morning mist lift over the village? French romance at its finest.
The restaurant serves food in the evening and the menu was the same every day we stayed here. However, there were so many options on the menu that you could eat here several nights in a row without getting bored. The food is French, with a touch of Italian inspiration – such as burrata on a bed of freshly harvested local tomatoes.
For main courses we ate, among other things, perfectly pink duck breast (margret de canard) and chicken with truffles. For starters we often had foie gras with onion marmalade and a small glass of the local sweet wine Monbazillac, which (not entirely unexpectedly) is like cut and sliced foie gras.
Pool
Above the hotel building, stairs climb up the hilly landscape to the hotel pool, a nice area with sun loungers and pergolas with sun roofs. On one of the hottest days of the trip, we hung out here with a book after today's excursion. A not entirely unpleasant afternoon, where we were also completely alone.
The bottom line
A perfect and super charming hotel in Dordogne if you are looking to stay in a smaller village with access to restaurants and services. The hotel guests were a mix of couples and families. The dog was welcome everywhere (including the pool) and although the beds were small, the hospitality was all the greater.
Read more about the hotel on their website: Hotel L'Abbaye
If I were to book again?
Two hotels in the Dordogne, two different personalities – but both equally wonderful. La Métairie for those who want peace and world-class food in the countryside. L'Abbaye for those who want to stay in the middle of a village with charm, service and a family feel.
Both are hotels I would undoubtedly return to – preferably tomorrow!
Want to read more tips from France? Check out my France page!
