The Alsace landscape is adorned with charming little half-timbered towns, nestled at the edges of verdant vineyards climbing the hillsides. Each village boasts its own character and unique traditions. During our day trip along the scenic mountain road Les trois châteaux , we stopped in the town of Kaysersberg. Here, we discovered a city with an imperial castle and an unexpectedly rich array of gastronomy and crafts. It was a delightful blend of history, culinary delights, and artisanal craftsmanship.
Decapolis Kaysersberg
Kaysersberg is nestled along the ancient Roman trade route between Alsace and Lorraine, and the city has been standing proudly since the early XNUMXth century. It was one of the ten imperial cities of the Alsace Decapolis, a powerful alliance within the Holy Roman Empire. This alliance, comprising ten strong cities, forged a common defense and trade network in the region, laying the groundwork for Kaysersberg's thriving history.
Perched like a sentinel above the city, the former imperial palace, Château de Kaysersberg (Kaysersberg Castle), stands proud. This castle was constructed for Emperor Frederick II of the Holy Roman Empire. Its strategic location was meticulously chosen, providing a commanding view of the entire valley and the ability to control and potentially block the vital trade route to Lorraine.
The castle now lies in ruins, yet those who reach the summit are rewarded with a breathtaking view. Hikers venture at their own risk, but the effort is modest and unquestionably worth it.
Alsace Wine Route and Grand Cru Schlossberg
Kaysersberg is situated on Alsace's renowned wine route Route des Vins d'Alsace. The sun-kissed hills surrounding the town are draped in vineyards that yield classic Alsatian white wines such as riesling, gewürztraminer, and pinot gris.
The town takes great pride in the Grand Cru Schlossberg, renowned for its exceptional Riesling grapes nurtured in the granite soil of the southern slopes. Schlossberg is the largest Grand Cru terroir in Alsace, deriving its name from the German words for castle and mountain. However, winemaking in this area dates back much further than the castle itself, with a history believed to have begun over 1,500 years ago, possibly initiated by the Romans. Unlike a single large vineyard, Schlossberg is collectively owned by several smaller vineyards, each contributing to its prestigious reputation. When you walk around the town, you pass several cave or caveau, good places to stop to shop and taste wines from Schlossberg.
The Weiss River
In the heart of the village, the Weiss River meanders at a gentle pace, a life-giving force for centuries. The river glides past historic half-timbered houses that straddle the boundary between land and water. One can almost envision the river swelling during ancient spring floods, with women washing clothes, cows drinking, and children playing with bark boats. Today, however, the river flows calmly, with no bark boats in sight.
Michelin restaurants for all budgets
Wandering through the streets of Kaysersberg also means immersing oneself in French gastronomy. We pass by numerous restaurants, all bustling with patrons—a surprising sight for a town of only 2500 inhabitants. Yet, being situated on a renowned wine route creates a thriving market for fine dining, making every culinary encounter a memorable one.
The city has no less than two Michelin-starred restaurants –La Table d'Olivier Nasti with two stars, and innovative Alchémille which has both a regular star and a green star. Also add two BiB Gourmand restaurants (La Vieille Forge and Winstub de Chambard) and you have plenty of options for a really good dinner. It may sound like your wallet will feel the pinch of a visit here, but La Vielle Forge, for example, has a three-course dinner menu for €38.
Kaysersberg, potteries and whisky
But Kaysersberg is not just about food and wine, it is also a centre for crafts. The town's potteries produce beautiful ceramics, where traditional patterns and colours are given new life. In September, the potteries even have their own market, when the whole town celebrates this proud tradition.
I didn't buy any ceramics this time, but I did buy a whiskey from Alsace. Alsatian whisky has a European IGP – Protected Geographical Indication– which means that this local whisky is a protected brand that can only be produced in Alsace. An Alsatian whisky must be made from raw materials sourced in Alsace and aged in oak barrels for at least three years. However, most of the whisky bottles we encounter have been aged for over seven years.
We leave Kaysersberg with a wonderful feeling after our walk. With fewer tourists and a charm that rivals the more famous villages in the area, it's no surprise that this village won the award for "France’s Favorite Village" in 2017. It's hard not to add this gem to the list of favorites.
How To Get To Kaysersberg
Kaysersberg is located in Alsace in northeastern France, 13 kilometers west of Colmar. The nearest large cities with airports are Stuttgart or Zurich.
Don't forget to book a table at one of the Michelin-recommended restaurants well in advance!
Read more about all the attractions in Alsace on my Alsace page.
Do you want to read more about France? Here you will find more articles about nature, cities, caves and hiking.
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