A day in Mariefred – Gripsholm Castle, steam train and lots of cake

I usually never plan anything when I go to Mariefred. In my opinion, it is a city that does best without a schedule. You arrive, park your car or get off the boat, train or bus and let the weather, mood and possible sugar cravings take charge. It has always been that way. Regardless of the season.

But on this particular day we'll start with Gripsholm Castle anyway. Not because we have a plan, but because some things in Mariefred are harder to choose than to choose. A visit here without a walk by the castle feels a bit like a cake without the icing.

It could be the upcoming visit to Taxinge A castle that speaks, but from a distance Gripsholm almost looks like a festive cake that someone has placed on the shore of Lake Mälaren. The round towers rise above the water like generous whipped cream buns, and the closer you get, the harder they become to resist.

Gripsholm Castle – 500 years of history

Gripsholm Castle is a royal castle and one of Sweden's best-preserved Renaissance palaces. The story begins in 1537 when Gustav Vasa had the castle built on the site of a former monastery. Since then, Gripsholm has been both a royal residence, a prison and one of the country's most visited castles. Every room, corridor and cellar has its own story. It is also home to one of Europe's best-preserved 18th-century theatres.

What makes Gripsholm a little extra special is the portrait collection, which is the world's oldest national portrait gallery. Wall after wall is filled with kings, queens, nobles and war heroes looking down from their frames. Some portraits definitely feel a bit embellished, especially when the model doesn't look particularly flattering or happy at the same time.

Lunch in the sun at the Castle Pavilion

After the castle visit, we didn't have time to walk very far before the sun had other plans and lured us to settle down at the Palace Pavilion for lunch. With a view of Gripsholm Castle on one side and Lake Mälaren sparkling on the other, there was really no reason to rush any further.

We ordered pinza with chèvre and with burrata, among other things – and they disappeared from our plates at about the same rate as the boats glided past on the water. It was exactly the kind of lunch that suits a day like this. Good food, beautiful views and a quiet moment in the sun.

The wooden houses in the city center

The old town of Mariefred is so small that you could walk through it in twenty minutes. But that requires a discipline that few visitors possess. I myself am constantly distracted by charming little houses, beautiful windows and alleys that look like they were painted by someone who liked marzipan pastries.

Here, rustic red, pistachio green and ochre-coloured wooden houses coexist along narrow streets. Everything is well preserved, but without that museum feeling that can sometimes be found in historic city centres. This is no Skansen. People actually live here. Someone is mowing the grass, someone is carrying home grocery bags and someone is probably wondering why yet another tourist is standing and photographing their house.

We find flea markets a bit by chance, which is actually the best way to find one. Around the square, the selection consists of a mixture of old porcelain, clothes and Höganäs mugs. No finds this time, but who knows what the next visit may offer.

The museum railway with the stinking locomotives

The Mariefred Museum Railway is one of the more charming reasons to go here. Narrow-gauge carriages in varnished wood, an old steam locomotive and a station building where you still buy your ticket over the counter. It is a living museum rather than a static one – the trains are actually run by people who are passionate about keeping history alive. Dressed in period uniforms and with soot on their noses, they look like they have stepped straight from another era.

We couldn't take the train this time. The plan was to travel on to Taxinge by railway, but that section had not yet opened for the season. However, it turned out that the most fascinating thing was not the train journey itself but the turning of the locomotive. When the locomotive enters the station, you have to manually turn the locomotive half a turn by hand.

Taxinge castle and cake

Taxinge Slottscafé is a short drive from Mariefred and is known throughout the country for its impressive range of cakes and pastries. It really has it all. The café boasts around 65 different varieties, from Sachertorte and arrack balls to banana cake, meringue cake, princess cake and sponge cakes.

In the 19th century, the castle was one of the largest estates in Södermanland, and during the 20th century, the estate was known for its horse breeding. But that's not why the castle is famous, but because a café was opened here in 1979. The café has now become a national celebrity.

Almost all the outdoor tables were full when we got there, but we managed to find a spot in the shade. We had a lemon tart, a meringue tart and a white chocolate liquorice topping. The pastries are just as sweet as they sound. If I had to add anything to the menu, it would probably be some tart mousse tarts or maybe a fresh raspberry tart. That would have been my first choice on a hot day like this. Or possibly a really good rhubarb pie.

A full-day excursion is coming to an end, but one thing is certain. It will be a late dinner today as the whole family has eaten their fill of cake.

Good to know about Mariefred

Mariefred doesn't take long to see. But it's the kind of place you'll want to return to – summer, fall, spring or winter. There's always something you missed last time.

Getting there: If you don't have a car, you can take the commuter train to Läggesta and then take the museum railway or bus to Mariefred during the summer. You can also take a boat from Stockholm, which has to be the number 1 option in the summer.

Gripsholm Castle: The castle is open daily during the summer months, admission is 170 SEK per adult (2026), 85 SEK per child. Expect the visit to take at least 1,5–2 hours. Dogs are welcome everywhere except indoors.
Gripsholm Castle – Royal Palaces

The museum railway: Check the timetable in advance if you want to travel by train.
Steam trains in Mariefred – Eastern Södermanland Railway

Taxinge castle cafe: Taxinge The castle café is open mainly on weekends, but during the summer the café is open daily. Come on a weekday in June or August if you want to avoid queues at the café, as they can be massive during the holidays. During Christmas the castle offers a roaring Christmas market that is also not to be missed.
Castle Café – Taxinge Castle