Marsaxlokk – The colorful fishing village in Malta

I am stared at by a thousand eyes. In the bow of almost all the fishing boats in Malta's fishing village Marsaxlokk you'll find the eyes. The eyes of Osiris that literally keep a watchful eye over the fishermen, making sure they return safely to port with the day's catch. It is no wonder that the colorful and unique little luzzo boats have become somewhat of a symbol of Malta. These stable and robust boats have been used in Malta for thousands of years, through the Mediterranean winter storms and under the merciless summer sun. Today, most luzzo boats have been replaced with more efficient fishing vessels around Malta, but here in Marsaxlokk, the luzzo boats have had to continue to simmer out to sea. Every day, all year round. So also this February day when we visited the village.

The fishing village in world history

Marsaxlokk gets its name from the Arabic word "marsa" (meaning harbor) and the Maltese word "xlokk" (meaning sirocco wind). It was here in the naturally sheltered harbor that the Phoenicians first landed on Malta in 1000 BC. and it was also here that Napoleon landed troops during the French invasion at the end of the 18th century. Even in peacetime, the village has received celebrity visits. Gorbachev and Bush had one of their major meetings here on a warship in 1989. Quite simply, quite a lot has happened in this small village of just over 3000 inhabitants. But through all these invasions and historical events, one thing has remained. The fishing.

There is a lot of activity in the harbor this morning. Nets must be cleaned and mended and boats must be pulled ashore. Today's catch has already been sent around to Malta's shops and restaurants, it is only on Sundays that the fishermen sell the fish directly at the village's large fish market. We stroll past all the harbor's restaurants. The menus are being updated with the day's dishes and the ice-filled stands are starting to be filled with the day's catch. There's no rush to open, it's only 12 o'clock.

Lunch in the sun

We settle down at one of the tables in the restaurant La Nostra Padrona in the port. The tables with the bright blue tablecloths are crowded and the atmosphere is convivial. The boats bob calmly a few meters in front of our feet and behind us the city embraces us with its low sand-colored houses with blue windows. In high season the village is packed with bus tourists, but on this February day it is quite quiet. We take off our jackets and enjoy the warm February sun in short sleeves. All the guests are sitting outside today, do you need to sit indoors in Malta at some point during the year when the sun is shining?

The seafood and fish menu is well filled and I have more difficulty than usual deciding what to eat. My husband and I finally decide on one Malfaldine al Tartufo, Zucchini e Gambere– a pasta with truffle, zucchini and shrimp. A choice we did not come to regret. The daughter's salad with burrata, beetroot and pesto was also a good choice.

Full and content, we stroll along the quay, past the small market selling honey, souvenirs, and aprons. Past the fishermen finishing up their day's work. Past the piles of nets drying in the sun. Some of the boats in the harbor look more or less unseaworthy, and I hope they are used for nothing other than short trips within the harbor. Not even the eyes of Osiris could help these boats through a storm.

Fishing with palm leaves

Three dogs are tied up at the dock. They pull on their leashes and bark impatiently. The owner is preparing his yellow-striped boat for a ride. The owner barely has time to let the dogs off the leash before they run out onto the dock and boldly jump into the boat, happily wagging their tails. Three Maltese “Boatsman” simply, almost like on Saltkråkan.

I browse through the menus of the other restaurants but can’t find lampuki (also called mahi-mahi or dolphinfish in other parts of the world) on any of the menus today. Lampuki is an interesting fish, as it is a migratory species that hatches off the coast of Cyprus before embarking on a long journey across the Mediterranean and over the Atlantic to destinations like the Gulf of Mexico. From August to December, large schools of lampuki pass by Malta, and the fishermen in Marsaxlokk still catch the fish in the same way they have since Roman times—using ‘sea parasols’ made of palm fronds, under which the fish are tricked into hiding to protect themselves from the sun's strong rays.

Just outside Marsaxlokk lies Peter's Pool- one of Malta's most spectacular bathing cliffs - but the road there turned out to be closed today. In fact, the road workers blocked the road right in front of us, completely without warning. Maybe it was just as well, because the road really needed a repair. Even if it meant that this time our visit to Malta had to do without a visit to the cliffs. But it is easy to see that road signs and information are not the Maltese's strong point. Neither are road surfaces.

How do I get to Marsaxlokk?

Marsaxlokk is located in the south-east of Malta, approximately 1 mile from Valletta. There are buses (No. 81 and No. 85) that go to Marsaxlokk from the Valletta Bus Square which will take you there in about 30 minutes.

Read more and search for your trip at Malta Public Transport.

Map (opens in Google maps)

Want to read more of my travel tips? Do not forget to like Rucksack on Facebook!