Riva del Garda – Where the mountains are reflected in Lake Garda – Italy

I visited Riva del Garda on a press trip with  Visit Trentino, but, as always, everything written here reflects only my personal thoughts and opinions.

Nestled between the rugged peaks of the Dolomites to the north and the soft, Mediterranean breezes to the south lies Lake Garda, Italy’s largest lake. In the south, the landscape is gentle and the shores inviting, while the north is defined by steep cliffs and dramatic mountains. It is here, amid nature at its most striking, that Riva del Garda sits. The town may be neither the largest nor the most accessible along the lake, yet its charm outshines many others. As sunlight dances across the waves and falls onto squares and narrow alleys, it becomes clear why so many pause here – drawn by the views, the atmosphere, and the unique sense of being close to both water and mountains.

Summer draws many visitors, but it is in fall that Riva reveals its most welcoming side. Come along on a stroll through the city’s neighborhoods – from the soft light of morning to the glow of evening.

Morning

I arrive at the lakeside just as the sun begins to peek cautiously over the surrounding mountains. Here on the northern shore of Lake Garda, it takes a while for the sunlight to reach above the peaks. It is technically sunrise, yet the sun remains hidden. This morning, the tallest mountains are wrapped in a veil of clouds and mist, creating an atmosphere that feels quietly enchanting.

A small boat breaks the morning silence, gliding toward Torbole. Often, it’s quicker to travel by water than by car along the winding roads – and infinitely more enjoyable.

Riva del Garda is Lake Garda’s second largest town, with a population of 17000. Despite the tourism, the town has managed to preserve the feeling of being a living city and not just a tourist resort. Sailing, windsurfing, mountain biking, and hiking dominate here – the strong and reliable northern winds make the area especially popular among sailors and adventurers.

La Rocca di Riva del Garda

At the marina stands La Rocca di Riva del Garda, the town’s medieval fortress. Built in the 12th century to defend the harbor, it was transformed during the Renaissance into an elegant residence with a flourishing garden. During the Austro-Hungarian era, it served as a military barracks, and today it houses MAG – Museo Alta Garda, which tells the story of the region’s rich history.

Even in October, the flowers are in full bloom, and I wonder if the morning joggers and commuters notice the colorful display around them. In Riva del Garda, the climate is Mediterranean, and the vegetation evokes more southern latitudes. Palm trees, olive groves, and flowering bougainvilleas frame the snow-capped peaks to the north, creating a striking contrast in the views.

The old port

I stroll along the quayside, past pastel-colored hotels and restaurants gradually preparing for the morning. Despite it being low season, everything seems on the verge of opening, and one restaurant has already fired up its espresso machine. Perfect for grabbing a caffè latte to enjoy as I continue my walk.

Piazza III Novembre

At the city's historic port lies the heart of Riva del Garda, the lively square Piazza III Novembre, which was named after the day when Italian troops took Riva and Austro-Hungarian rule ended.

For several centuries, Riva was part of the Habsburg Empire, and in the 19th century it became part of Austria-Hungary. Lake Garda was divided: standing on the southern shore meant you were in Italy, while the northern part of the lake fell under Austro-Hungarian rule. This history is visible in the architecture – here, facades are simpler, less adorned, with a focus on clean lines. Art Nouveau-inspired villas and functional buildings come together to create a stylish and harmonious townscape.

In the middle of the square stands the 34-meter-high Torre Apponale, dating from the 13th century, overlooking what was once a bustling marketplace. The tower is open to visitors and offers a panoramic view, yet I have my sights set on an even higher vantage point.

Afternoon

Bastione and the funicular

At the foot of Mount Rocchetta lies the ruin Bastione, one of Riva del Garda’s most famous landmarks. The easiest way to reach it is via the town’s funicular, which shuttles continuously between the two stations. The ride itself takes only three minutes, but don’t worry—the panoramic views are even more spectacular once you reach the top. On this particular day, there is no queue, and I can board immediately. Though the journey lasts just three minutes, the wait at the upper or lower stations is often much longer.

Once at the viewpoint, the old town of Riva unfolds beneath me like an intricate puzzle. From above, the alleys appear even narrower, and the houses almost seem to be built into one another. The mountains cast a shadow over the side I’m on, making it a bit chilly for a terrace, but the view of the sun glimmering across the lake on the opposite side is simply unbeatable.

The Bastione, the Venetian tower from the early 16th century, was built for the city's defense but was almost completely destroyed by French troops in the 18th century. The stone walls are still robust, and the corridors between the floors make it easy to imagine the tower's former glory.

I take the funicular back down, casting one last glance over the city and the shimmering lake. The alternative is the walking path, popular in summer for avoiding queues, but I prefer to continue my evening stroll through the city.

Centro Storico

Back in the city, I find myself almost instantly in the old town, with its narrow alleys, bustling squares once used for trade and markets, churches, and palaces. The facades, painted in apricot, pink, and blue, are simple and plastered—more reminiscent of Stockholm’s old town than a typical Italian trading town. Not a single air conditioner is in sight; instead, shutters are used extensively to keep out the crisp October air.

Via Fiume, the city's old main street, is filled with small restaurants and shops. Here you will find Leon d'Oro, a charming family-run restaurant that has been in the Salvaneschi family since 1939. The menu features classic Italian dishes alongside local specialties and exceptional pizzas—something for everyone. All this is served in a historic setting where the original furniture has been carefully preserved.

A ceramics shop catches my eye with its large bowls with patterns of olives, poppies and tomatoes. A bowl with painted olives in black and green appeals to me. I buy two, because the thought of summer in Skåne with Italian colours is tempting.

I pass by the Marocco neighborhood, which has neither colorful tiles nor oriental influences. The name is said to come from an Italian word meaning “large stones,” which is what the houses in this area are built of. It is nonetheless very charming, with beautiful little details and corners everywhere you look.

Evening

The sun slowly sinks behind the mountains, painting the sky in soft shades of pink and apricot. Outdoor cafés fill with people who, wearing down vests and warm shoes, brave the chilly autumn air. A glass of Aperol Spritz — the classic aperitivo from the 50s in Veneto — feels like the obvious companion this evening. Vespas, post-war joy, and a touch of sparkling water — a little “spritz” — recall the time when northern Italy still belonged to Austria-Hungary.

The city drifts into the sounds of the evening, filled with chatter and laughter. I sit by the lake, the last rays of the sun glimmering across the water, with the remarkable feeling of being almost on the Mediterranean and almost in the Dolomites at the same time.

How do I get to Riva del Garda?

Riva del Garda is located in the northernmost part of Lake Garda, 2 hours by car from Bergamo (Milan) airport or 2 hours by car from Venice.

The nearest train station is in Rovereto, 30 minutes east of the city.

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