Many of the delicacies we associate with French cuisine today have their origins in one of the country's most appreciated food regions – PérigordIn the hilly and castle-studded landscape along the fertile Dordogne River, produce is always close at hand. Here, some of the region's specialties literally grow on trees, and restaurant menus are often filled with local ingredients that barely need translation.
In Périgord, traditions, flavors and crafts have had time to develop and food is an obvious part of the experience for anyone traveling here. Here are five delicacies from Périgord that say something about the region and that you shouldn't leave without having tasted. The first delicacy on the list is world-famous, but also controversial.
Foie gras – a tradition with a long history and a topic for discussion
Foie gras (duck liver) is one of the world's most debated delicacies. Not because of the taste or because it is a "liver pâté" – there is rarely any disagreement. Instead, it is the production that arouses debate.
Many who have tasted foie gras appreciate (and almost adore) the taste, but the method of force-feeding geese has long been controversial and is also discussed politically, including in the Swedish parliament. There are producers working on alternatives without force-feeding, but the traditional method is still the most common.
In Périgord, foie gras is above all part of an ancient cultural heritage. The tradition began with farmers in the region raising ducks during the summer and feeding them extra food before slaughter. The liver was used to make a liver pâté – foie gras – which was saved and eaten at Christmas.
Today, duck liver is on many menus in Périgord and is a taste that recurs at feasts and family dinners. In grocery stores, the shelves are filled with glass jars and preserves, and it is more the rule than the exception to see it in customers' shopping baskets. Here, foie gras is not considered a rare luxury, but something that is often at home. Served on good bread, preferably with a little jam and a glass of sweet white wine, it is a classic starter in the region.
In Périgord, the whole duck is eaten, not just the liver. Classics such as Duck confit (duck slow cooked in its own fat) is a must try and also look out for Duck breast (duck breast is usually served pink).
For a truly decadent lunch, try a Périgourdine salad – a salad with smoked duck breast, foie gras, walnuts and some vegetables – more meat than vegetables, simply put.
The truffle – the black diamond of Périgord
Beneath the ground in Périgord lies the mythical black The Périgord truffle - Tuber melanosporum. The Périgord truffle (as the name indicates) originally comes from Périgord, but today it can also be found in, for example, Spain and Gotland.
Considered the most flavorful and aromatic of all truffles, the Périgord truffle lives in symbiosis with oaks and hazel bushes. Harvesting requires patient truffle hunters with trained dogs (and sometimes pigs) to find them with gentle paws and hands.
Winter, especially from December to February, is truffle season. At markets in villages like Sainte-Alvère, Neuvic, Vergt, Sarlat and Montignac you can buy the black diamond directly from the producers. But truffles are everywhere – in cheeses, crisps and even duck liver pâté.
In the village of Sorge there is a truffle museum for those of you who want to learn more.
Chèvre du Périgord – Creamy goat cheese
No region in France is without local cheeses and in Dordogne it is mainly artisanal goat cheeses (goat) that apply. They are often sold fresh in farm shops and markets around Périgord.
The typical cheese here is fresh or lightly aged, often shaped like small round pucks or cylinders. We visited the charming farm La Borie D'Imbert – a goat farm outside Rocamadour where they produce several different types of goat cheese. All the cheeses are made on the farm from raw milk from the goats, which is used to make the cheeses Rocamadour AOP, Pavé du Quercy, Rocailloux apéritifs, and Crottin, among others.
Rocamadour cheese from the farm is a soft and creamy goat cheese with a distinct taste of browned butter. Beneath the fine surface is a creamy core with a thin layer of melting cheese. It should be served at room temperature, but can be stored in the refrigerator for up to three weeks without losing its creaminess.
And a little tip along the way in all good intentions – chèvre is pronounced [scratchy], not [schevréee].
Walnuts – the golden tree of Périgord
Along the Dordogne River, walnut trees spread out in row after row across the landscape. Perigord walnuts has been grown around the Dordogne River for centuries and the nuts are as famous as the region's truffles.
Walnut oil is perhaps the most beloved of the region's nut products – rich, nutty and perfect for salads. We visited Vielcroze Estate, a walnut producer with its own farm shop. Walnuts grow on seven hectares here, and you can buy everything from their popular oil to walnut cream, walnut mustard, walnut wine and of course fresh walnuts. We bought some walnut wine with us, a wine often served as an aperitif at local restaurants.
For those who want to know more about walnut farming, there is also a small museum that also shows how walnut oil is produced. Truffles are also grown on the farm, so you can both buy truffles in the shop and go on a truffle safari with the farm's truffle dog.
Monbazillac – Golden drops
Just east of Bordeaux lies Bergerac, a wine region often overshadowed by its famous neighbor Sauterne, but which offers some of France's most characterful wines. Most famous is Monbazillac – a golden dessert wine made from grapes affected by noble rot, which gives flavors of honey, apricot and sun-ripened fruits.
An obvious place to experience this wine is Monbazillac Castle, an elegant castle surrounded by vineyards where you can taste, shop and learn about the history of wine.
Many people find the wine to be very sweet – and it is. Monbazillac is not a wine you just open for a glass, but something you enjoy slowly in small sips. As is often the case, it goes perfectly with the food of the region. In Périgord it is almost always served with foie gras or Roquefort cheese, but the wine also goes well with berry desserts or sweet fruits.
What do you think about foie gras and Monbazillac? Have you tried it?
Do you want to read more about France or Perigord/Dordogne? Here you will find more articles about castles, cities, nature and hiking.
