In southern Burgundy, just west of Mâcon, lies one of France's most fascinating landscapes. As befits Burgundy, the slopes are covered in vines with clusters of grapes glistening in the sun, but it's not just the vineyards that draw visitors here. The landscape is dominated by three dramatic limestone cliffs – Roche de Solutré, Vergisson and Mont Pouilly – who rises as kronor over the rolling fields. Together they form the protected area Solutré Pouilly Vergisson, one of France's selected Grand Site de France.
I visited on a scorching July day when the Mâconnais vineyards were at their best gathering sweetness from the sun’s rays. The sun lay like a windless blanket over the vineyards, and the little breeze that was offered was unbearably cool. As we slowly navigated our way through the landscape behind wine tractors that simmered between the fields, the cliffs began to rise in the distance like nature’s own monuments. Some of the cliffs were a bit reminiscent of the mesas and buttes of Monument Valley, but the surroundings here were green and lush.
The closer we got to the cliffs, the more imposing they seemed. I scanned the slopes, hoping to spot some of the small Konik Polski horses that graze here. These horses are almost like conservationists – they keep the land open and protect the biodiversity of the area, keeping weeds and sly away.
In 2013, the area was named Grand Site de France (“magnificent sites of France”) – a designation that in France can be compared to being named a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The area’s biodiversity and the number of rare species, together with the rocks and their important importance for the knowledge of our history, contributed to the designation.
The most popular activity in the area is hiking uphill Rock of SolutreThe hiking trail is 4 kilometers long, with an elevation gain of about 100 meters, which makes it relatively easy. But on a day when the thermometer shows 35 degrees, like when I was there, even the short trail becomes quite sweaty.
Once you reach the top, the landscape spreads out like a mosaic beneath your feet: vineyards, bocage (hedges and stone walls that divide the landscape), woodlands and valleys that stretch as far as the eye can see. On clear days you can see all the way to the Jura Mountains and I think I can see the mountains on the horizon through the haze of sunshine.
But the area is not just about rocks and wine. Soultré is one of Europe's largest prehistoric sites, where nomadic hunters lived at the end of the last ice age, over 55000 years ago. Here, Neanderthals and modern humans hunted horses and reindeer and gathered food from nature. You can see a large part of all the finds from the area in the Solutré Prehistoric Museum (Le Musée de préhistoire de Solutré).
Before we drive on to some of the area's vineyards, we stop by the roadside and soak up the scenery. It's easy to understand that this was one of President François Mitterrand's favorite places, where he returned to hike twice a year with his brother-in-law. Here, between cliffs, vineyards and historical remains, you will not only find tranquility, but also enjoyable places for both taste buds and soul.
How do I get to Solutré Pouilly Vergisson?
Solutré Pouilly Vergisson is located 1 km west of Mâcon and 7 km north of Lyon. A car is preferable to be able to visit the vineyards and cliffs in a convenient way.
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Read more about the area on the official website: Solutré Pouilly Vergisson, Grand Site de France
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