We can already see Vézelay from afar, as we drive through a landscape of endless, golden sunflower fields. In the middle of all the yellow, high on a hill, two church towers rise towards the sky. Even from a distance, you can feel in your gut that this is not just any small village. Once upon a time, this small place was one of the most important religious centers in Europe.
The roads narrow and wind up the hills like soft ribbons, and at the very top of the hill sits Vézelay, grand and somewhat mysterious. We roll into the village just as the sun begins to slowly sink over the rolling vineyards, bathing the entire area in a warm, golden glow. The evening’s accommodation quickly turns out to be one of the absolute highlights of the trip: an old post office that has been carefully transformed into a stylish boutique hotel.
Evening walk towards the Basilica
The small cobbled streets take us up to the top of the hill, where the pride of the city meets us: the Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. During the Middle Ages, Vézelay was one of Europe's most important pilgrimage destinations. Its history began as early as the 9th century, when Benedictine monks founded a monastery here.
According to legend, the monastery’s founder, Badilo, brought holy relics from the Holy Land to Vézelay. Around 1050, rumors began to spread that the relics of Mary Magdalene herself rested here – the woman who, according to the Gospels, followed Jesus to the cross and bore witness to his resurrection. The story quickly spread across Europe, and soon pilgrims from near and far flocked here, eager to catch a glimpse of her.
The Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine was quickly built to accommodate the growing crowds of pilgrims, and Vézelay soon became one of the most important starting points for the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. For those who did not have the strength or time to make the journey all the way from here to Spain, a visit to Vézelay was enough to earn them a few points in heaven.
The basilica is decorated with ornately carved portals and with stone statues of saints above the red gate, but it is not the exterior that has primarily given the church its reputation for beauty. It is the light inside the church, which filters through the narrow windows and bounces between the stone walls. In the warm evening light, everything becomes a little extra beautiful.
When I come out of the basilica, the sun has approached the horizon and is starting to spread its golden rays across the entire landscape. A small cat is lying contentedly outside the basilica, enjoying the warmth. The cat doesn't even care that we have the dog with us. With the basilica at our back, life feels safe.
At the top of the hill there is a lookout point and below us vineyards and villages spread out like a patchwork of gold and green, and the horizon blushes in orange, pink and purple. It's the kind of view that's almost ridiculously beautiful.
Empty streets and midday
The way down on foot through the city is almost deserted, we only meet a few couples on an evening walk. The outdoor cafes are starting to close and most are not even open today. We direct our steps towards the hotel and find a small local restaurant right next door. A small family place where both we and our little four-legged companion are warmly welcomed.
The restaurant even has its own dog who runs around the tables, happily nuzzles at the guests and sometimes lies down on the floor in the doorway and watches the guests. We have actually never encountered any problems with bringing our dog to a restaurant in France, life is a little easier down here.
Dinner is simple but fantastic – a perfect steak Bourgogne and a glass of local red. Good.
The post office that became a hotel
Hôtel de la Poste et du Lion d'Or where we are staying is a real dream. The old post office has been carefully converted into a beautiful hotel where history has been allowed to coexist with modern comfort. After dinner I sit down in the outdoor lounge area, among comfortable armchairs and French jazz music, and order a glass of local wine. In Vézelay, it is chardonnay that is worth every penny. Just like in the nearby district of Chablis.
The sky is still a faint pink-purple and the air is warm. I could sit here all night.
A morning with saints and relics
The next morning we stroll through the quiet streets towards the city walls and the old city gate. Vézelay has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site with the justification "Outstanding Universal Value" and visitors to the city are no longer just pilgrims. Add to that the fact that the city is named one of France's most beautiful - Les plus Beaux Villages de FranceTourists simply flock here during the day.
The small houses along the road are not particularly decorated, except for the occasional carved sign. This is not a flower town with hanging floral splendor from every window, but it is stylish, clean and surprisingly untouched.
The shutters slowly open and some children are getting ready for school. That's when it happens. People start to gather in large numbers on the street right outside our hotel. But what is happening?
Priests, nuns and a whole entourage carry what at first glance looks like a small glass coffin. Inside the glass coffin lies a finger. A relic said to belong to none other than Mary Magdalene herself.
The procession begins to sing and slowly makes its way up the hill towards the basilica. If ever I felt a little out of place it is now, so we slowly back away from the procession back towards the hotel.
Vineyards, World Heritage Sites and Beautiful Villages
We spend the remaining days in Vézelay among the vineyards, world heritage sites and villages of the area. The area is one of the absolute gems of Burgundy and if we didn't have an itinerary to follow, we would probably have stayed more nights. Not just for the hotel, but for the whole experience. There is something about the atmosphere in Vézelay that you can't put your finger on, a feeling that stays with you. You don't have to be a pilgrim to visit Vézelay, but I have to admit that the feeling I took home with me almost bordered on something religious.
How do I get to Vézelay?
Vézelay is about 2,5 hours by car southeast of Paris. Take the A6 motorway towards Auxerre and then follow the signs for Vézelay. The last stretch is a pure pleasure through vineyards and small villages.
The nearest airport is Paris and for those who want to go by train the nearest major train station is Auxerre. Here you can rent a car for the final leg which takes about 45 minutes. You can probably forget about public transport, we didn't see a single local bus.
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Hotel tips
Don't miss staying at Hôtel de la Poste et du Lion d'Or – historically charming and in a perfect location. The hotel is also dog-friendly. Read more about the accommodation in my article: 3 Unique Hotels in Burgundy - From Castle to Post Office - France
